down to and through the smaller hole, which should be fitted with a grommet. The wires can be run
up the front frame to the junction box and joined according to the wiring instructions on page 19.
20 Interior fittings
20.1 Interior floor and side panels
Parts required 164,165
1. The first interior job is to install the optional inner floor pans (165). Before you lay these in the car
we would recommend fitting sound deadening sheets on the underside to stop the panels resonating
(floor pans are handed, the longer one being for the driver’s side). Make sure they are pushed out as
close to the chassis side rails as possible and if necessary trim to suit. Before fixing in place hold in
the upright side panels (164) inside the side chassis rails and ensure the alloy panels meet nicely with
no big gaps. A rubber seal or ‘u’ section rubber can be used if necessary these may also need a small
amount of trimming. When happy with the fit, from the underside of the car mark the four positions
each side for the seat mounting bolts (if these are not drilled see section 19.4 for hole positions).
Remove all the panels and drill clearance holes in the floor pans before laying the floors and side
panels back in for a final position check. You can remove the side panels and rivet or screw the floor
pans to the outside chassis rail, ideally behind the position of the side panels so they don’t show (this
is to stop them moving in towards the centre of the car). The side panels can now be fitted back in
again. We would suggest screwing them into the top rails and down the front edge with slot headed
screws, as these might have to come off on occasions to access exhaust mounts or pipes and
electrics. The driver’s side panel is made in two sections to gain extra foot space for the driver. The
front part can be fitted first using the body mounting flange at the front end either sharing or adding
fixings; this panel does not need to be removable.
20.2 Gearbox and prop shaft covers
Parts required 157,162
1. If using alloy floor panels as fitted in 19a these should have a return on the inner edge standing
upwards, this is for mounting the tunnel and gearbox cover (157). Start by preparing the gearbox
cover (see diagram on page 34). The lower flange on the tunnel and gearbox cover will need
removing to a level with the vertical section and we advise you drill several access holes for
checking oil etc. You will also need to cut holes for the gearstick and handbrake to pass through the
gearbox cover using the diagram on page 34 as a guide. Once prepared lay the tunnel in the car over
the gearbox. It is easier with the handbrake on and in fourth gear. You will need to stretch the tunnel
apart and over the two floor flanges, as they are made as narrow as we can to keep as much
passenger space as possible. We recommend that you screw or use Rivnuts to secure the tunnels
bearing in mind that you may need to remove them for access to the oil filler etc. Once the gearbox
cover is in place do the same with the prop shaft tunnel. The tunnel should butt up against the
gearbox cover and can be sealed with tape.
2. Once happy with the fit of the two covers they can be trimmed with the supplied ‘Hardura’ trim kit
(162). Start by fitting the gearstick gaiter. Slide this over the gearstick and open the lower end up
before sticking in place with spray impact adhesive. You can then glue on the two part cover that
goes over the gearstick tower on the gearbox cover. There is a half circle that locates on the rear of
the gearstick tower and an oblong piece that fits across the top and down both sides. With these in
place the main tunnel covers can be fitted starting with the parts nearest the front and work your way
back to the large cover, which may need the handbrake slot cut. With the gearbox covers fitted next
glue on the prop shaft cover trim before using the last piece of trim to cover the join between the
front and rear sections this piece can be held down with screws in the front and rear lower corners.
20.3 Seat belts
Parts required 160
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