14 Battery tray, battery and cut off switch
Parts required 109,110,111
1. The battery tray (110) fits on the right hand side in front of the drivers switch panel. First you will
need to remove the body-mounting bolt that goes through the chassis rail just ahead of the driver’s
side/switch panel as this is also used to secure the battery tray. Insert the battery tray through the
side panel and lay in place. You may need to trim the edges to suit the shape of the body and to
allow the battery tray to fit in around the fuel and brake lines. Once settled in place, mark the hole
where the body mount goes through the chassis on the battery tray before removing the tray and
drilling to the appropriate size. Replace the tray and refit the body mount bolt securing the battery
tray at the same time.
2. The battery tray needs to be secured on the front edge with either pot rivets or Rivnuts and screws.
3. Next choose a suitable position for the battery cut off switch (109) either in the top of the driver’s
switch panel or hidden behind the dash panel. Mount the switch securely and make sure there is
nothing that can touch on the terminals of the switch.
4. With the switch mounted you can position and connect the main power cables (111).
5. There are two black cables. One has two eyelets and this connects between the gearbox/overdrive
and the chassis, which can be bolted to the gearbox mounting plate. The other has the negative
battery terminal on one end and an eyelet on the other, the latter needs connecting to the chassis
using the bolt hole in the centre of the driver’s switch panel mounting flange which should have been
left out and drilled out to accept a 5/16 UNF bolt washer and Nyloc. Fit the eyelet on the side away
from the battery and have the cable trailing back and into the battery location. The battery terminals
will need to reach into the driver’s side compartment to allow you to be able to connect them later.
6. There are three main red cables. Take the cable with the positive battery terminal; leave this
terminal in the battery location and connect the other end on the battery cut off switch. Next take the
cable, which has two different size eyelets and connect the larger one on the spare terminal of the
battery cut off switch. Along with this cable connect up the main wiring feed cable (this is the thick
brown (wiring section U)). The other end of this cable needs to pass through the bulkhead and
connect onto the starter solenoid on the engine side of the bulkhead.
7. Connect this wire one end; the last main red wire to the spare terminal on the bulkhead solenoid.
The other end of the third cable connects on the top terminal of the starter motor solenoid.
Connecting the cables like this will make the bulkhead solenoid work as a junction and will also
work as a starter button under the bonnet, as in the original cars.
15 Rear body and door/s
Parts required 150 (inc 152), 146-8
1. With the wiring harness in place the rear body section (150) can now be fitted. Start by making sure
the rear of the fuel tank straps are loose enough to allow the tank to move around so that the neck can
be centralised in the rear body aperture. Also place a length of wood (or similar), which is a little
wider than the rear frame, underneath the rear frame towards the back and support on axle stands or
G clamp to the chassis. This gives the rear body something to sit on until you are ready to fix it in
position. As with the centre section, it is easier for two people to lift and position the rear body,
making sure the alloy panels behind the driver and passenger are correctly aligned. Secure with the
two M6 screws in the centre, two M5 screws behind the driver’s door aperture and eight M5 screws
on the passenger side between the centre and rear body sections (unless a two door model is being
built). Before finishing fitting the rear body the door/s (146) must be fitted to ensure an even panel
gap. The rear of the body can be raised or lowered a small amount to adjust the door/s gap size.
2. The door hinges are not handed but do have an upper and lower. The lower hinge has the stud hole
closer to the hinge pin due to the shape of the door. Cut suitable gaskets to fit between the hinges
and the body/doors. It is easier to fit the nut which is located inside the door panel first as the door
can be laid on a soft cloth on a bench and the hinge can be turned instead of the nut which makes it
easier to start. Fit the stud and nut, which goes in the door gap. Leave these all slightly loose until
the door is fitted and gaps adjusted.
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