1. We advise using a three-point harness; there are mounting points built in the chassis for this. The
outer lower mounts are bolted directly to the chassis, the inner mounts are bolted on to an angle
bracket first to bring them out to match the position of the outer mounts. This angled bracket is then
bolted to the rear bulkhead. The upper mounts are also in the rear bulkhead central to each seat. All
positions in the chassis have 1/2 UNF nuts welded in place ready to accept the fixing bolts supplied.
As the seat belts are bolted in place you must check now that they are not twisted as this will
compromise their safety and make them uncomfortable to wear.
20.4 Seats
Parts required 158/9
1. If the seat mount holes are not drilled you will need to drill four holes for each seat, starting with the
rear mount holes, which need to be in the front edge of the rear bulkhead horizontal panel just behind
the small return. The outer hole centres need to be three inches from the square box chassis section
and the inner hole centres need to be thirteen inches in from the outer hole centres. The front holes
need to be in perfect parallel with the rears and thirteen inches forward, this will put the inner hole in
the inner chassis rail and the outer in the seat brace bar from the outer chassis rail to the chassis cross
brace. If you need the seat to sit as low as possible and do not need the seat to move forwards and
backwards then the seats can be bolted directed down to the floor, otherwise first bolt down the seat
runners (159) with the 5/16” UNF bolts supplied before bolting in the seat (158). The seat base will
require drilling to mount. The easiest way to mark the seat is to take some old bolts that fit the
runners and cut the heads off before grinding to a point. These can then be screwed into the seat
runners before laying the seat in place. Leaning on the seat will then put a mark on the underside of
the seat where fixing holes are required.
21 Exterior fittings
21.1 Bonnet Straps
Parts required 139
1. To finish the bonnet it needs two leather buckle straps (139) on the top face with the centre of the
strap approximately 6 inches from the side of the body. Protect the bonnet and scuttle with masking
tape then lay the buckle end on the scuttle with the leather finishing at the scuttle edge as if it
overhangs (it will make closing the bonnet awkward). With the position confirmed mark the two
holes in the strap on the body then remove the strap and carefully drill. You can then remove this
side of the masking tape and secure the strap with fixings (supplied).
2. Next take the other end of the leather strap and insert the end into the buckle. Select whichever hole
makes the strap length most similar to the length on the buckle/body side. With the strap in the
buckle but not pulled so tight it can’t be released once it is bolted down, and when you are happy
with the position, mark the two holes in the end of each strap onto the masking tape then remove the
strap and carefully drill the holes before removing the masking tape and securing the straps with
bolts provided.
21.2 Headlamp covers
Parts required 137
1. To fit Perspex headlamp covers (137) you will need to take time to file them to get the outline
correct, shaped to fit your bonnet. The headlamp covers are handed and only fit one way up. Protect
the body surrounding the headlamp cover indent and put one pen line at the top as a constant
reference point. Take the headlamp cover and a pen suitable for temporary marking on plastic and
lay the cover over the headlamp cover position, turn forwards and backwards until you find the best
fit with the profile of the body to cover. Mark the top of the cover in line with the line on the body;
this is a reference so every time you bring back the cover it will go back in the same place. Carefully
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