13. With the rear frame removed you can rivet on the final pieces of the belly pan set comprising the
boot floor (this will need flexing to pass through the frame) and the rear bulkhead which rivets on the
outside of the frame.
14. The main tubular chassis can then be turned the correct way up and stood on four axle stands as level
as possible ready for building the suspension assemblies.
4.3 Front Suspension
Parts required 003–021 +027
1. Take the front lower wishbone poly bushes (007), lightly lubricate and insert them into the four tubes
in the chassis. Once the poly bushes are in, lubricate and fit in the metal sleeves.
2. You can fit the lower wishbones (004). To establish the correct wishbone the inner end is splined for
the torsion bar and should be offset forward and the outer ball joint end turns upwards.
3. Apply copper grease to the pivot shaft (005) and slide this through the wishbone (hole nearest the
splined torsion bar hole) from front to back then add on the first of the three large holed serrated
washers then pass the pivot pin through the front chassis upright. On the pivot pin between the front
and rear uprights you can now slide on the second serrated washer followed by the spacer tube and
lower tie bar (006) with its outer end pointing forwards to meet the lower wishbone, then slide on the
third serrated washer before passing the pivot pin through the rear chassis upright. Finish off by
fitting the last serrated washer with the small hole and the castle nut but do not tighten yet.
4. Line up the wishbone and the tie bar and pass through the 1/2” UNF bolt with one plain washer
already on from the front (this bolt also locates the front damper (027) which can be mounted with
“c” clip facing rearwards). Use the second washer and nut to secure. You can tighten this but don’t
fit top mounting bolt yet.
5. Next take the torsion bar (016) and slide the teardrop mount (017) over the rear end slightly up the
bar. The front end of the torsion bar has a location groove and the teardrop mount splined and
extends rearward. You can then slide the torsion bars through the rear location on the chassis from
the engine bay. Drop the front end down and pass forwards through the chassis into the lower
wishbone and locate in the wishbone with the M5 bolt supplied through the location groove
6. Next make sure the wishbone is at its lowest point before sliding the torsion bar teardrop rearwards
and locating in the chassis mounting with the 3/8” UNF x 1” supplied in the inner mounting hole.
This hole is slotted and acts as a position-locking bolt. The outer mount hole of the torsion has an
adjustable mount to aid suspension height setting. Take the supplied 3/8 UNF x 2 1/2 setscrew fit on
a plain washer and pass it through the torsion bar adjuster mount bracket from the underside (the
bracket mounts on the chassis with the single hole in the horizontal and the twin hole section
pointing upwards) before adding another plain washer and a Nyloc nut. Screw this down until
almost tight.
7. Next screw on a plain nut and lock washer followed by the ‘C’ shaped adjusting bracket, this can
then be attached to the torsion bar outer mount hole with a 3/8UNF x 1 1/2 bolt with washers and
Nylocs.
8. Once this is hanging in position screw the adjusting bolt to get the head of the bolt just in line with
the level of the chassis before marking the mounting hole positions. These can then be drilled and
the brackets bolted in place.
9. Extend the damper and pull up into the top mount. You may need an assistant to do this as you are
putting pressure on the torsion bar. Use extra washers as shims to centralise the top of damper and to
stop the mount being squeezed in when tightened.
10. Now you can tighten the lower pivot pin castle nut and lock with a split pin.
11. Next take the upper wishbone inner mount (011) and secure with the lower mounting bolts whilst
using the top bolts to hold the holes in alignment. Before tightening the lower bolts add the slide in
shims, which control the camber angle. Four shims in each position will give a little negative
camber; five will leave it nearer neutral. The suspension settings will all need checking and adjusting
once the car is fully built.
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