2. The central hole in the main dash is for the lamp switches, the alloy switch panel can be offered up
and the mounting holes drilled. Centrally above this is the map reading lamp position; these holes
can be drilled too.
3. To trim the main dash panel lay the cloth face down with the dash face down on top and cut the
material to approx 30mm larger all the way round. Turn the dash over and spray both mating
surfaces with impact spray glue. When tacky bring the two surfaces together starting from one end
and smooth the surface out as you go and avoid bubbles and wrinkles. Turn the dash and trim face
down again and spray glue the overhanging material and the mating surface on the rear of the
dashboard. When tacky fold the material around behind the dash snipping where necessary to help it
lay flat. The dash panel pod is now ready to fix in place.
4. The clock binnacle can now be trimmed and fitted. Start by checking the amount, position and size
of holes in the binnacle. The gauge holes need to be large enough for the trim to fold around behind
the dashboard and for the gauges to still fit; you may need to file the holes slightly to achieve this.
5. Holes needed are for:
a. two large gauges: the speedometer and tachometer.
b. three small gauges: fuel, ammeter and water temp/oil pressure.
c. two small holes above left gauge: ignition key (top) and starter button.
d. Warning lamps: main beam, indicators, low charge (some might be contained in the
speedometer).
6. The clock binnacle can now be trimmed in the same way as the main dash panel, trimming the front
and both sides in one piece. This then bolts through the main dash panel central to the steering
column.
13 Electrical and Wiring
Parts required 059,093,094,095/6,103-6,108,113/4,126
1. The first part of the wiring installation is to locate the positions of the mounting holes for the Starter
solenoid, 2 fuse boxes and regulator box (the latter being a dummy on alternator cars), and to drill
the holes for the wiring loom to pass through. Follow the diagram on page 26 for the positions and
hole sizes for the fuse boxes, regulator and the wiring grommet (this is actual size and can be traced
to use as a template). The fuse boxes and regulator fit above the horizontal top hat on the driver’s
side under the engine compartment and the solenoid below it.
2. Drill a hole for the main engine/front lamp wiring to exit the body in the driver’s side alloy panel just
below/beside the top chassis rail. The wiring will then follow this chassis rail forward to the coil etc.
3. The solenoid needs to be mounted in this lower panel and will need a wiring hole nearby for the
main battery lead to come through to it.
4. Once all the holes are drilled insert Nutserts where necessary to make the fitting/changing of the
electrical items easier. These items (059,094,095/6) can then all be secured in place ready to connect.
If your starter solenoid has extra terminals on one of the studs these can be carefully removed, as
they are not required in this wiring application. You are now ready to start installing the wiring loom.
K First locate loom K. This is for the fuse boxes and regulator and needs to be passed through the bulkhead
from inside the body. This hole, as with all other wiring loom holes, must be protected from cutting into the wiring by
fitting a rubber grommet. The wires for the regulator run above the top fuse box and down to the terminals on the
regulator. Connections are as follows:-
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