16. With the hinges mounted to the door/s offer them up to the centre body section and ensure the front
end has a fairly even panel gap and is level with the top of the body before marking around the front
of the door hinges, remove the doors and with careful measurements mark and drill positions for the
hinge bolt holes. The doors can then be bolted to the centre body section.
17. Next the centre body will need to be adjusted to align with the doors and the rear body may need
raising or lowering to adjust the door gaps, the rear panel can also be drill in the centre chassis
position which will hold the rear body in the best position for door alignment. Some filing to the
body and door/s will be needed later to get the gaps even and level, filler may be needed to help level
the panels in places.
18. When happy with the door fit the final four upright alloy panels can be fitted to the centre body
section. These will also need trimming to fit and the body may need to be released at times to help
get the panels into place. Each time a panel is fitted recheck the door alignment and adjust the panels
if necessary. These also need to be bolted to the chassis to secure the alloy panels in place.
19. Next the rear body needs its final alloy panels fitted. The small panels should be behind the centre
sections rear panels and the return should be inside the main front to rear alloy panels, these will
need bonding in place but rivets can be used to help secure in place and drilled out later. The rear
section alloy panels will need bolting to the centre section alloy panels with 4 bolts across the
horizontal and 6 bolts down the front edge (3 above the join and 3 below the join). The rear cross
section of alloy can also now be riveted to the side sections.
20. The main rear alloy panels can now be secured to the chassis along the lower rear frame rails using
bolts (which could be replace by rivets after painting) equally space along the edge, the rear prop can
now be removed.
21. The body can now be bolted to the chassis along the side rails and the clamps removed before finally
finishing off the door/s and bonnet panel gaps, now is also the time to test fit the door and bonnet
catches. The striker for the door/s needs to go in the wider door recess area with the handles mounted
on the door/s at the same height and the bonnet catches fit approximately 300mm from the front
wheel arch edge.
22. When happy and finished with the bonnet fit, the lower radiator alloy panel 132 should be fitted as
this helps secure the front frame in position. The bonnet can now have the hole cut for the front
grille, do not cut out all the recessed area as you will need to leave tabs in the areas for the bolts (do
not over tighten the bolts as they are very delicate due to their size).
23. The bonnet louvered panels can also now be fitted these normally have a step made on the outer edge
to raise the panel above the height of the pot rivet head, these panels can be bonded in as well as or
instead of rivets or you could use clinch screws with nuts to secure the panels. Also if you are having
one the air intake scoop will need fitting on the bonnet at this point.
24. Next turn to the rear valance 151 and spare wheel cover 154, offer up the rear valance and ensure it
is central position before clamping in place. This can now be bolted through the small ledge on the
rear panel. The underside of this will be riveted or screwed to the rear frame cross tube. The outer
ends will need blanking off with alloy panels or GRP.
25. Offer up the spare wheel cover and mark the location you want the pins that secure the lower edge on
the spare wheel cover and the valance. Remove the cover and bond on two 8mm pins to the inside of
the cover and drill two 8mm holes in the rear valance to accept the pins.
26. Refit the rear cover with a rubber or similar seal to hold the spare wheel cover off the valance and
adjust/file the cover to get an equal panel gap all around the edge before measuring the position of
the spare wheel cover wing fastener pins. These will need drilling through the wheel cover and
through the rear body. The tightness of these can be adjusted by spacing the spring clips away from
the rear body.
27. Once happy with all your panel fit, drill or cut any holes which will help on reassembling after paint,
for example;- exhaust hole though centre body, exhaust bracket holes, fuel filler neck and base (the
latter is normally fitted before painting) and screen mount holes.
28. The body should now be ready to remove for painting, we would recommend making a frame to
attach to the alloy panels to lift the GRP off the ground for during and after painting.
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