23
M
arking Wood. If you measure a cut for 24 inches, line up the blade on the waste side of the mark. Don’t cut
through the middle of the measurement line or you’ll reduce your desired board length by half the width of the saw
blade! For accurate work, don’t mark your cut with a fat pencil line, G. A narrow dash, with a sharp pencil point is
best, H. Encircle the dash so you’ll find it again and add a small X to indicate the waste or cut-off side. Pencils, like
saw blades, have thickness. When squaring off from the cut mark, align your square to allow for pencil clearance,
which will be about 1/16” away from the drawing edge of the square, I.
MITER CUTS
This operation is the same as cross cutting, except the miter gauge is set to an angle other than 0. Hold the work-
piece firmly against the miter gauge and feed the work piece slowly into the blade to prevent it from moving
during the cut.
COMPOUND MITERING
This is a combination of bevel cross cutting and mitering. It is infrequently used. Follow instructions for both bevel
cutting and mitering.
Dadoing is cutting a “rabbet” or a wide groove into the work. A
dado blade, A, (not supplied with your saw) usually consists of two
outer blades and several interior cutters. These can be adjusted to
cut grooves from 1/8” to 13/16” for making shelves, joints and te-
noning. Set the blade’s width according to the instructions.
After adjusting its width, mount the dado blade on your saw just like
a regular blade. You’ll need an optional dado insert, B (#50-230R)
to replace the standard one that comes with your saw. Use the
fence to line up the cut. The blade guard/splitter must be removed
when dadoing. Never use the dado blade in a bevel position.
I
HG
ALWAYS VERIFY THE DADO BLADE CLEARANCE BEFORE CONNECTING THE SAW TO THE POWER SOURCE.
REATTACH THE GUARD AND ADJUST AFTER DADO CUT IS FINISHED. THE MAXIMUM DADO HEAD WIDTH FOR
THIS SAW IS 13/16” AND THE MAXIMUM DADO BLADE DIAMETER IS 8”.
B
A
USING A DADO HEAD BLADE
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