LAY-UP
AND
RECOMMISSIONING
LAY-UP
Many owners rely
on
their boatyards to prepare their craft,
including engines and generators, for lay-up during the
off-season or for long periods
of
inactivity. Others prefer to
accomplish lay-up preparation themselves.
The following procedures will allow you to perform your
own lay-up and recommissioning,
or
you may use them as a
check list for others. These procedures should afford your
engine protection during a lay-up and also help familiarize
yo1,1
with the maintenance needs
of
your engine.
If
you have any questions regarding lay-up procedures, call
your local servicing dealer; he will
be
more than willing to
provide assistance.
PROPELLER
SHAFT
COUPLING
The transmission and propeller
half
couplings should always
be opened up and the bolts removed when the boat is hauled
out
of
the water or moved from land to water, and during
storage in a cradle. The flexibility
of
the boat often puts a
severe strain on the propeller shaft
or
coupling,
or
both,
while the boat is taken out
or
put in the water. In some cases,
the shaft has actually been bent
by
these strains. This does
not apply to small boats that are hauled out
of
the water
when not in use, unless they have been dry for a considerable
period
of
time.
FRESH
WATER
COOLING
SYSTEM
A 50-50 solution
of
antifreeze and distilled water is recom-
mended for use in the freshwater cooling system at all times.
This solution may require a higher concentration
of
antifreeze, depending on the area's winter climate. Check the
solution to make sure the antifreeze protection is adequate.
Should more antifreeze be needed, drain an appropriate
amount from the engine block and add a more concentrated
mixture.
Operate the engine to ensure a complete circulation
and mixture
of
the antifreeze concentration throughout the
cooling system. Now recheck the antifreeze solution's
strength.
LUBRICATION
SYSTEM
With the engine warm, drain all the engine oil from the oil
sump. Remove and replace the oil filter.
(Place some paper
towels and a plastic bag around the filter to catch the oil
during its removal.)
When installing the new oil filter,
be
sure to apply a small
amount
of
oil on the rubber sealing gasket at the base
of
the
filter. Fill the sump with the correct amount
of
oil for your
engine model. (Refer to the
SPECIFICATIONS section
of
this
manual.)·
Run the engine and check for proper oil pressure and make
sure there are not leaks. Stop the engine, check oil level and
add oil as needed to bring level to dipstick full mark.
A
CAUTION:
Do
not
leave
the
engine's
old
engine
oil
in
the
sump
over
the
lay-up
period.
Engine
oil
and
com·
bustion
deposits
combintrto
produce
harmful
chemicals
which
can
reduce
the
life11f
the
engine's
internal
parts.
FUEL
SYSTEM
Top off your fuel
tanks
with No. 2-D (SAE J313) that has a
cetane rating
of
#45
or
higher grade
of
diesel according to
ASTM D975. Fuel additives should be added at this time to
control bacterial growth and a fuel conditioner such as
Diesel Kleen
+ Cetane Boost (DO
NOT
use any alcohol
based additives). Change the element in your primary fuel
filter/water separator,
if
the system contains one, and clean
the separator sediment bowl.
Change the fuel filter elements
on
the engine and bleed the
system as needed. Start
the engine and allow it to run for
5-l
0 minutes to make sure no air is left in the fuel system.
Check for any leaks that may have been created in the fuel
system during this servicing, correcting them
as
needed.
RAW
WATER
CIRCUIT
Close the through-hull fitting. Remove the raw water intake
hose from the fitting.
Place the end
of
this hose into a
5-gallon bucket
of
clean fresh water. Before starting the
engine, check the zinc anode found in the heat exchanger on
the engine and clean
or
replace it as required. Clean the raw
water strainer,
if
one is installed in the inside
of
the hull.
Start the engine and allow the raw water pump to draw fresh
water through the system. When the bucket is empty, stop the
engine and refill the bucket with an antifreeze solution
slightly stronger then needed for winter freeze protection in
your area.
Start the engine again and allow all
of
this mixture to be
drawn through the
raw
water system. Once the bucket is
empty, stop the engine. This antifreeze mixture should
protect the raw water circuit from freezing during the winter
lay-up, as well as providing corrosion protection.
Remove the impeller from your raw water pump (some
antifreeze mixture will accompany it, so catch it in a bucket).
Examine the impeller.
A-cquire replacement,
if
needed, and a
cover gasket.
Do
not replace the impeller (into the pump)
until recommissioning,
but
replace the cover and gasket.
NOTE:
If
the engine storage is going to be a lengthy one,
12
months
and
beyond, it is wise to rotate the engine by hand
two complete turns every additional 4 months to allow the
injection pump components to move. This will help prevent
their sticking during extended storage periods.
+
..~,Univarsal
a a
mN;l@tU·*?*•
42
To Next Page
Loading...
Need help?
General
