The main tension remains inactive during the first four stitches of the tack
in order to prevent the fabric from being contracted while the first long
stitches are being sewn.
{This
applies only to bartacks made with exception
ally long starting
stitches
and on very thin fabric). The main tension remains
inactive also during the last stitches of the needle cycle so that an adequate
amount of thread can be pulled through the tension for the trimming ac
tion.
(3)
Bobbin Thread Tension
Set the
bobbin
thread
tension so
that
the
bobbin
thread
will be pulled into
the fabric correctly. Moke sure, however, that the tension is not too light as
otherwise
the
bobbin
thread
will
not
be
cut.
Correct
Tension
Regulation
Fig. 45
The neot oppeorance of the finished seam and its durability greoHy depend on the correct
regulation of tensions. The tensions ore correctly balanced if the needle and bobbin threads
interlock
in
the
center
of
the
material,
os
iliustroied.
This
seam
looks
ugly
and
is not
durable.
The
bobbin
thread
pulls the
needle
thread
to
the
underside
of the
fabric
as the stitch is
being
formed.
Goose:
Needle
thread
tension
too
weak,
or
bobbin
thread
tension
too
tight.
Remedy; Increase needle
thread
tension or
decrease
bobbin
thread
tension.
This
seam
looks
ugly
and
is not
duroble,
The
needle
thread
pulls the
bobbin
thread
to
the
surface
of
the
fabric
as
the
stitch
is
being
formed.
Cause:
Needle
thread
tension
too
tight, or
bobbin
thread
tension
too
weak.
Remedy:
Decrease
needle
thread
tension
or
increase
bobbin
thread
tension.
(4) Lifting Lever
After the machine hos stopped, the left treadle is depressed to pull down
the lifting lever and raise the clamp feet. At the same time, the knife bar
is actuated
and
causes the knives to swing forward from the stand-by to the
cutting position.
This
action causes the needle thread loop to be pulled
over the cutting edge of the needle thread knife
and
be trimmed. Simultan
eously, the bobbin thread which passes in front of the cutting
edge
of the
bobbing
thread
knife is pulled tout
and
cut.
To adjust the throw of the knives, loosen screw C (Fig. 34) and move the
bracket on the lifting lever forward or backward. The setting Is correct
if the tip of the bobbin thread knife is flush with the
edge
of the needle
plate when the lifting lever has been depressed completely.
56