16 © 2000 Directed Electronics, Inc. Vista, CA
door lock harness (H3) wire connection guide
The system has door lock relays on-board, and can directly interface with most electric power door lock systems
drawing 15 amps or less. It can also drive after-market actuators directly. (Some vehicles require that an after-
market actuator be added to the driver’s door to allow system control. See Type D Locks.)
The easiest way to determine which type of door lock system you are working with is to remove the master
locking switch itself, which is usually on the driver’s door or on the center console. Once you have determined
which type of factory door lock circuit you are working with, and the color codes of the switch wires to be used,
you can usually simplify the installation by locating the same wires in the vehicle’s kick panel. If no central
locking switch is found, the installation may require a door lock actuator.
NOTE: Always retest the wires in the kick panel to be sure they work the same as the wires on the switch.
There are eight common types of door lock circuits:
Most GM, some Ford and Chrysler, 1995 and newer Saturns, some new VW, newer BMW.
Most Asian vehicles, early Saturn, some BMW and Porsche.
The switches are wired directly to the motors. This type of system has no factory relays. Most Fords, many GM
two-doors cars and trucks, many Chryslers.
These include slave systems without an actuator in the driver’s door, but with factory actuators in all the other
doors. Type D also includes cars without power locks, which are having actuators added. All Saab before 1994,
most Volvo except 850i, most Subaru, most Isuzu, and many Mazda. Some mid-eighties Nissans, pre-1985
Mercedes-Benz and Audi.
type D: adding one or more after-market actuators
type C: directly-wired reversing-polarity switches
type B: 3-wire (-) pulse controlling factory lock relays
type A: 3-wire (+) pulse controlling factory lock relays
identifying the door lock system
H3/1 - H3/6 power door locks
To Next Page
Loading...
