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If no tape is present on you machine, adjust the stack so that the center of the cutter hits the
lower edge of the jamb when the router swings into position on and interior jamb. Make a
mark next to the roll pin. Make another mark 3/8” below the first one. When you set up for
exteriors, the cylinder stack and the lower mark will rise until it aligns with the roll pin.
The second adjustment positions the chipout block so it’s centered for door thickness when the
router tilts in. Shut off the router slide valve and pull out the pin. Slide out the 3/8” thick steel
shim with the notch cut in the middle. Insert the shim under the bracket for 1 ¾” doors, and
above the bracket for 1 3/8” doors. If the jamb only needs to be raised 1/8” or ¼” Alternate
spacers are included with the machine in 1/8” and ¼” thicknesses. Use both of these spacers in
place or the 3/8” spacer, and arrange them above and below the chipout for proper height and
spring tension.
Changing Chipout Blocks:
If you are not machining jamb, it is rarely necessary to change the hinge section chipout block
because only the left edge of the cutout is likely to chip, and a block with a 5” cut in it could
work for shorter hinges as well. Notice that the same block can be used with either ¼” or 5/8”
radius cutters.
To minimize tear out in the jamb the chipout block should have a cut in it the same length as
the hinge width.
Machining New Hinge Chipout Blocks:
To machine a new block, use a 1 ¼” diameter bit: It’s awkward to make multiple passes with a
½” bit. First turn off the machine, and the routers, and slide the hinge router air valve off.
Remove the pin that limits upwards router travel into the jamb, and bolt the new chipout block
in place – you will need to hold the router up manually so the bit clears the new block.
Make sure that you have the proper pins selected for the hinge length (Horizontal Travel), and
that the router setting is the proper depth of cut. With the router turned off, plug it into an
external outlet and put on a face shield and dust mask. Hold the router up so the bit clears the
right top edge of the chip out block; and cinch it on. Lower the router all the way down from
the RIGHT corner. Then push it left as far as it will go. Tilt the router into the door cutting
position to rout the bottom corners of the chipout block. When finished, plug the router back
into its own outlet, turn it on, replace the top pin and turn the slide valve back on.
Setting the Jamb Stops:
Just as the left hand stop is the fixed stop on the Commander, the left hand jamb stop is a fixed
stop. Its normally factory set for a 1/8” header clearance. Adjust the right jamb stop by
reading the tape under it against the left edge of the stop.
Thinking about the examples so far with the off feed stop set at 76” setting the jamb stop at 76
1/8” would give and 1/8” head clearance. The correct pin is a ¼” long, inserted in the jamb
stop for indexing flat jambs. Note that the pin length must be less than the depth of dado for
the jamb to set flat against the stop.
For rabb
eted jambs, use the indexing block. A pin should be selected for the block that is ½”
longer than the thickness of the stop on your jamb. For example, if the stop is 5/16” thick, use
a 13/16” pin. The header clearance references form the position of the jamb stop on its tape.
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