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Battery Drain Information
To control operating functions on several models of refrigerators, a
12-volt DC power source, battery and/or converter are required.
For gas operation, .5 amp is required through the power supply to
keep the solenoid open to supply propane gas to the burner as
needed to continue to cool.
Models with a moisture reduction heater (humidity dryer) require an
additional .24 amp. This totals less than 1 amp. The drain at .74
amp is low. However, after three to four days of continuous draw
your battery will be down, closing the solenoid and shutting down
cooling capability, when the battery drops to 11.5 volts DC.
During AC operation, 12-volt DC is required to operate the humidity
heater, the light display, electronic thermostat, and interior light
(when equipped).
Door Seal
To maintain cooling efficiency the door must seal completely on all
four sides along the door gaskets. Frequent frost build up or reduced
cooling are indicators of air leaks around the doors. Place a strip of
paper the size of a dollar bill between the flange and door gasket.
Close the door and pull the paper out. There should be a light
frictional drag indicating proper seal. Should the paper feel loose,
the gasket is not sealing well. Contact your dealer or service center.
Door Latch
A positive or full locking latch is not permitted through codes. Each
latch has a rating by pounds of pressure, yet will prevent the door
from opening during travel.
Operation in Transit
During camping or parking, the refrigerator MUST be level for best
operation. While traveling, the up and down hill movement of the
coach, will not affect the performance of the refrigerator.
Do not use undue force or jerking action when opening the
refrigerator door. Air temperature differences can cause a
partial vacuum within the cabinet requiring a firm but steady
force to open the door. A sudden jerk could cause door
damage or personal injury.
CAUTION
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