○ USB module and cable (optional)
○ The BMS may be ordered with optional cable upgrade (C- and B- cables can be upgraded to 8
AWG, 12” or 24” cables. see section 2.2.3 for why this may be useful). Crimped copper lugs
may also be specified at order-time.
● A pair of power distribution blocks, with two or more 3/8" lugs, rated for at least 150 amps (most
with 3/8" lugs will be rated for over 200 amps). We recommend a matched pair with one black for
negative, and one red for positive. These will be the interface between the battery pack, and the rest
of your system.
● An enclosure for your battery pack. Popular choices are:
○ Overkill Solar sells a stainless steel frame for the 100Ah LiFePO4 batteries. This is arguably the
strongest and most durable way to build a battery pack, and would be suitable for mobile
installations, for example an RV.
○ 1/2" plywood is a very popular choice. This can be assembled in a few hours with very basic
tools. A pocket-hole jig (e.g.: Kreg K4) is the quickest and easiest way to attach 1/2" plywood
at 90 degree angles without splitting the material.
○ Plastic snap-top battery boxes can be purchased for under $10.00, and are intended to be used
in a mobile setup (e.g. RV or boat). They have locking lids, adjustable dividers, two handles, a
recess for a mounting strap, and pass-throughs for large battery cables.
○ Any large plastic box will suffice for a permanent, non-mobile installation. Storage boxes from
companies such as Rubbermaid and Sterilite are available in a multitude of shapes and sizes.
○ Many DIYers will also choose to forgo the enclosure altogether. Typically, the electronic
components are mounted to a piece of vertical 1/2" plywood, and the batteries are usually
placed near the floor, but ideally elevated up a few inches. Sitting on a closet shelf is perfectly
fine. These cells do not offgas in normal operation, so they may be placed inside a living space.
Admittedly this setup isn’t for everyone, but it might be the right choice for some people.
2.2.2 Gather Consumables
● 16-22 AWG Insulated ring terminals (needed for the balance leads). We include 3/8" ring terminals
with the Overkill Solar 100Ah LiFePO4 batteries, which have 10mm lugs. If purchasing other
batteries, you will need to provide your own.
● 8-10 AWG ring terminals (needed to connect the BMS’s pig-tail leads to the battery). Crimped ring
terminals and longer pigtail leads are optional items for the BMS at the time of purchase. See the
Bill-of-materials in Appendix B for exact sizes.
● 4 AWG, 2 AWG, 1 AWG, 1/0 AWG, or 2/0 AWG stranded insulated wire, 3/8" ring terminals, and
heat-shrink tubing (exact size will depend on the charge and discharge currents. See Appendix B for
bill-of-materials for specific configurations. See Appendix F for wire sizing guidelines).
● Kapton tape (needed to secure the temperature sensor(s). We recommend every DIYer to have Kapton
tape on hand. Buy it in assorted sizes). If you don’t have Kapton tape, or don’t want to buy it, you can
use whatever tape you have laying around.
● 2” gaffer tape (optional; if you plan to tape your batteries together instead of fastening them inside of a
box or within a frame) We recommend gaffer tape because it does not leave a residue in most cases.
Duct tape works too, but gaffer tape is superior. And if you don’t have either of those, then any tape
will work in a pinch.
● Double-sided foam tape (optional; place between battery cells to prevent them from sliding around, and
also as a convenient way to attach the BMS to the battery pack. We recommend 3M™ VHB tape, and
this is what gets included with the 100Ah LiFePO4 frame kits).
● Light-duty 6” zip ties (for wire bundle management)
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