Copyright 12/14 76 S/N XXXX WO#XXXXXX
Smoracy, LLC
MODEL 3680 TROUBLE SHOOTING
PROBLEM - CONCAVE DOOR WILL NOT MOVE USING THE MANUAL CONTROLS:
(All other hydraulic systems are working)
Possible Cause Possible Solutions
Material wedged in and around Shut down the machine and with the ignition key in
Concave Door. your possession, check around the Concave Door to
determine what might be restricting it from moving.
Access is through the maintenance door on right side
of machine. Clear any debris that may be causing
the problem.
Concave Door assembly. It’s possible to bend the Concave Door and the hinge
area when a large piece of steel or some other foreign
material is allowed to get into the machine. Repair or
replace the Concave Door as necessary.
Hydraulic cylinder damage, It’s possible for the cylinders to become damaged if
(bent rod, broken piston, end cap etc.) foreign material forces it’s way through the Concave
Door.
Feedwheel Yoke lift valve engaged. The Concave Door shares a hydraulic circuit with the
Feedwheel Yoke lift. If the Feedwheel Yoke lift valve is
engaged to raise the Feedwheel there will not be any
oil passing through the control valve for the Concave
Door. Check to make sure the Feedwheel Yoke lift
valve is not stuck in the raise position.
Low hydraulic system pressure. A quick check of the hydraulic pressure can be done
by placing the pressure gauge into the diagnostic port
provided on the control valve. Put the Concave Door
manual control valve into the open or close position to
check the Concave Door working hydraulic pressure.
An 2050 PSI (141 bar) reading would indicate that the
Concave Door is mechanically stalled by some
obstructing material. A very low pressure reading would
indicate a hydraulic problem with the pressure relief valve
or the hydraulic pump. See “ Procedure for checking
hydraulic pump and relief valve setting” in the
Hydraulic Section.
No hydraulic system pressure. Trace the pressure line from the valve bank back to
the manifold used for the Hydraulic Shut Down
system. Identify the electric solenoid for this circuit
and verify that you have a 24 volt reading (12 volt on
some models) with the ignition switch on. These
solenoid valves need to be energized or the oil is
pumped back to tank. If you have the proper voltage,
try swapping this solenoid with another to determine if
it is bad. If the problem moves to the circuit you
swapped with then the solenoid is at fault. If the
problem stays with the circuit you are working on then
the pump is your problem.
TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE
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