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Test points for the Icemaker
N = Neutral side of line
M = Motor connection
H = Heater connection
T = Thermostat connection (bimetal)
L = L1 side of line
V = Water valve connection
T-H= Bridge over to start rotate the shut off arm
Power ON Test conditions :
Test points L + N
voltage check
between L + N there must be a Voltage ~ 230 V.
Make sure your test probes go into the test points for at least 12 mm
Test points T + H
motor and bimetal-thermostat check
Test points T + H will verify if the bimetal thermostat is open or closed.
Connect T + H with an insulated piece of wire ( 1,5 mm² ) to run the motor.
If the motor doesn’t run, replace the module and motor assembly.
If the motor runs, replace the bimetal-thermostat on condition that
the temperature on the ice-mould is colder than -9 °C and the bimetal is not closed.
Test points T + H
mould heater check
Connect T + H with an insulated piece of wire ( 1,5 mm² ) to run the motor.
After about 1/2 rotation of the ejector you can feel the heat up of the heater in the mould.
If not – the heater is defective and the complete mould should be replaced.
Test points L + V
water valve check
Connect L + V with an insulated piece of wire ( 1,5 mm² ).
The valve should switch on and water should flow into the mould.
Hint : If the mould heater is defective the valve will be not activated.
ATTENTION :
Water is sprinkling from the roof of the freezer into the freezer if you
don’t place or hold a bottle/crisper under the water tube on the roof !
Test points M + N
ice maker motor check
Connect M + N with an insulated piece of wire ( 1,5 mm² ).
The motor runs.
Power OFF Test conditions
Test points L + H
mould heater check
Test points L + H will check the resistance of the heater (approx. 280 Ohms)
Replace the mould and heater assembly if the value differs.
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