2.4 Needles and Threads
Needle system: 2134-85
Recommended
needle size: Nm 90 for thin material
Nm 100 for medium-weight material
Nm 110 for heavy-weight material
High sewing security and good sewability are achieved with the
following core threads:
–
Two-ply Polyester Continuous Polyester core-spun
(e.g. Epic Poly-Poly, Rasant x, Saba C, ...)
–
Two-ply Polyester Continuous Cotton core-spun
(e.g. Frikka, Koban, Rasant, ...)
In case these threads are not available, the Polyester fibre or cotton
threads listed in the table can also be sewn.
Often two-ply core threads are offered by the thread manufacturers
with the same designation as three-ply Polyester fibre threads
(3cyl.-spun). This causes uncertainty with regard to twisting and thread
thickness.
When in doubt unravel the thread and check if it is twisted 2- or 3-ply.
The label no. 120 on the thread reel of a core thread corresponds
e.g. to the thread size Nm 80/2 (see table values in brackets).
In case of monofilament threads it is possible to use needle threads
and hook threads of the same s ize. The best results are achieved with
soft and elastic threads (software) of the thread size 130 Denier.
Recommended thread sizes:
Needle size Core thread Core thread
Nm
Needle thread Hook thread Needle thread Hook thread
Polyester Polyester Polyester Cotton
continuous core-spun continuous core-spun
Label No. Label No. Label No. Label No.
90 120 (Nm 80/2) 120 (Nm 80/2) 120 (Nm 80/2) 120 (Nm 80/2)
100 100 (Nm 65/2) 100 (Nm 65/2) 100 (Nm 65/2) 100 (Nm 65/2)
110 75 (Nm 50/2) 75 (Nm 50/2) 75 (Nm 50/2) 75 (Nm 50/2)
Needle size Polyester fibre thread Cotton thread
Nm (3cyl.-spun)
Needle thread Hook thread Needle thread Hook thread
90 Nm 80/3-120/3 Nm 80/3-120/3 Ne
B
50/3-70/3 Ne
B
50/3-70/3
100 Nm 70/3-100/3 Nm 70/3-100/3 Ne
B
40/3-60/3 Ne
B
40/3-60/3
110 Nm 50/3-80/3 Nm 50/3-80/3 Ne
B
40/4-60/4 Ne
B
40/4-60/4
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