95
system is not equipped with a bypass kit, and you intend to winterize
by adding antifreeze to the system, remove the anode rod (storing it
for the winter) and replace it with a 3/4 inch drain plug.
REFRIGERATOR________________________________________
KZ recreational vehicles use numerous different size and model
numbers of refrigerators operating on 120- volt AC. Performance of
refrigerators depends on various factors, such as, energy, venting,
leveling, humidity and atmospheric heat temperatures, but not
limited to these. All refrigerators are designed with absorption type
of cooling units requiring careful leveling and venting conditions.
Leveling
For correct operation, the refrigerator must be within three degrees
of level in any direction. Continued operation outside of these limits
will result in irreparable damage to the cooling unit in the
refrigerator.
Venting
For an absorption unit to operate fully it must have two vents. The
lower vent serves as access to service components and allows air to
enter. As the refrigerator heats up, warm air leaves through the
upper vent in the roof or the side vent. The roof vent gives the best
“chimney” results. However with correct baffles, side vent are good.
All vents must prevent birds and rodents from entering.
Units with two-side vents as in slide-outs, require a 12V fan to be in
operation. When upper cooling fins reach 150° Fahrenheit, the fan
will automatically start to operate. The positive wire has a five amp
in line fuse installed. Access to the fuse is inside of the lower
service vent door.
Moisture Reduction Heater
Some models have a heater built into
the chassis frame of the refrigerator,
referred to as a “moisture reduction
device”. Its design is to reduce moisture
on the frame during hot, humid days.
The drawing, at right, shows a switch
on some models. When using the refrigerator, keep the switch in
“NORMAL OPERATION”. Only use “HIGH HUMIDITY” when
NORMAL OPERATION
OFF
HIGH HUMIDITY
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