PRELIMINARY
TROUBLESHOOTING
Problem: Burners do not light.
Possible Causes: • Electrical plug is not
plugged into a live power
outlet.
• Burner parts not replaced
correctly.
• Holes in the simmer rings
or slits in the burner rings
may be clogged.
• Gas not turned “ON.”
• Clogged orifice or wet
spark electrode due to
spillage or burners not
dry after cleaning.
Problem: Burners have yellow or
yellow-tipped flames.
Possible Causes:
A. Yellow Flames B. Yellow Tip On C. Soft Blue Flames:
Outer Cones: Normal For Natural
Normal For LP Gas
Gas
Normal burner flames should
look like (B) or (C), depending
on the type of gas. Some yel-
low tops are normal with LP
gas.
• Burner parts not replaced
correctly.
• Incorrect orifice size.
Problem: Burner control knob will not
turn.
Possible Causes: • When the knob is at the
“OFF” position, it must be
pushed down before it can
be turned, and it can only
be turned in a counter-
clockwise direction.
• Need to check the bezel for
proper alignment.
Problem: Random sparking.
Possible Causes
(External): • Clogged burner port ring.
• Improper electrical supply.
• Excess air movement in
burner area.
Possible Causes
(Internal): • Loose wire connections to
electrode and/or spark
module.
• Module failure.
• Open spark switch.
ORIFICE/JET SIZES
Orifice Replacement
Orifices are easiest to replace after the cooktop
has been removed. To replace the main and sim-
mer orifices, remove the burner base by follow-
ing Steps “To Remove The Cooktop” on page 36.
Unscrew the orifice using an appropriately
sized conventional socket and nut driver
(#16476 for simmer orifice). Use a piece of sticky
tape in socket to prevent the loose orifice from
falling out.
Remove the “C” clip on valve shaft and lift the
valve switch to expose the simmer jet on the
valve. Use a small standard screwdriver. Un-
screw the jet and remove and replace.
* Simmer orifices are all brass because they are too small
to color. ID code “letters” are stamped on orifice body.
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