CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
WHEELS AND TIRES—11
with hand wire brush or medium grit emery-
cloth and wash with rubber solvent, 2 inches
in all directions from the edges of the injury,
on both inside and outside surfaces of the
safety shield.
Apply one coat of quick cure vulcanizing
cement 1 inch in all directions from the edge
of the injury on the inside surface of the
safety shield and % inch from the edges of
the injury on the outside surface. Permit ce-
ment to dry 15 to 20 minutes. Then apply a
patch of %
6
gauge quick cure tube repair gum
to the inside surface. Cut gum to extend 1 inch
in all directions from the edges of the injury
and stitch tightly to the shield.
Apply a patch of %
2
" gauge quick cure
tube repair gum to the outside surface of the
safety shield. Cut gum to extend
y%
inch in
all directions from the edges of the injury and
stitch tightly to the safety shield.
Vulcanizing procedures are similar to those
for curing inner tubes. Clamp repaired safety
shield onto Holland covered hot plate and cure
8 minutes at 307 degrees F. (60 lbs. steam),
with inside of the shield against the hot plate.
Electrically heated or powder burning patch-
es and equipment may also be used for re-
pairing safety shields. Cure patches of the
proper size on the inside and outside surface
of the safety shield as outlined above, with the
heat generation unit against the inside surface
of the shield.
25.
REPLACEMENT
Used in severe service, captive-air safety
shields may, on occasion, be chafed through
one or both plies in the areas which cover the
base of the tire bead. In such cases, the shield
should be removed from service and replaced
with a new one.
When captive-air safety shields are removed
to replace tire or for tire inspection, etc., in-
spect the outside surface of the bead channels
and safety shield surface for chafing or exces-
sive wear. If no fabric chafing is apparent,
safety shields may be reapplied for further use.
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
26.
LEAKAGE CAUSES AND
CORRECTIVE METHODS
Valve Leak—This type of leak is usually in-
dicated by bubbles at the valve stem after soap
solution is applied at this point. Make sure
that the rim is clean around the valve hole. If
a "snap-in" type rubber valve leaks, it must
be replaced.
Rim Leaks—If the leak is at the top of rim
flange (between flange and tire bead, mark
location of leak on tire and rim, and dismount
tire).
Rusty Rim—Remove rust with scraper and
finish the operation with wire brush or steel
wool. Apply MOPAR Rubber Cement thickly
to tire and rim flange. Mount tire to rim while
cement is still wet.
Foreign Material Embedded In Sealing
Grooves of Rim—Remove with wire brush or
screwdriver blade. Apply MOPAR Rubber Ce-
ment thickly to the cleared area, and mount
tire while cement is wet.
Bent Flange—Inspect flanges of wheel to de-
termine if they are bent. A bent flange can be
straightened if damage is not too severe.
Cracked Welds—Cover weld area with soap
solution and check for pin hole leak. If leak is
evident, repair or replace wheel as necessary.
(DO NOT WELD RIM.)
Heavy Rim Weld—A slow leak may result
if rim weld has not been dressed down. Use a
flat file to smooth off the weld in the flange
area. Apply MOPAR Rubber Cement in the
area to help "make" the seal.
Cracked Rim—A rim seldom cracks unless
it has been welded or badly overloaded. Do not
try to repair a welded rim, install a new wheel.
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