Rostock MAX v2 User's Guide
#4 Nail the First Layer.
I don't believe folks spend enough time learning to print a perfect first layer reliably. If there are
defects in the first layer, they will invariably come back later to bite you – the part separating form the
build plate or a defect in the part. Trying to print a good (or great) first layer is probably one of the
most frustrating experiences for most, it is also the most critical. Here's where strategy #3 comes to
play, don't continue a print on an inferior first layer! Abort the print and start that first layer again and
again until you nail it. Why waste time on a part that will most likely fail or not be useful? Each time
you print a first layer, measure it! If you tell your slicer to print a 0.20mm first layer, then it should be
pretty darn close to 0.20mm. If it isn't, you've identified a variable that you can easily fix and nail down
(Z height). 0.20mm is not a lot and unless you have highly calibrated eyes, you can't tell the difference
between 0.20 and 0.15mm, but your printer sure can. At 0.15mm the first layer is going to squish onto
the print surface.
It may even seem like you are getting a great first layer and great sticking (which you are) but
later, you'll discover the part is nearly impossible to remove or your extruder will start making that all
too familiar TICK, TICK, TICK sound from missing steps. A perfect first layer will go down smooth
and consistently time after time.
TIP: polish the tip of your nozzle! Charred filament and scratches on the very tip of the nozzle
are dragged over the layers as it moves around. Best case these leave a visible mark on the print, worse
case they rip the first (or higher) layer off the build plate.
#5 Slow Down.
Back to my guitar lesson example... The other thing my instructor taught me in that first lesson
was to practice slowly (using a metronome) until I nailed the measure(s) at a slow tempo. Then,
gradually and consistently, increase the speed. The same applies to 3D printing, print slowly at first.
This gives you time to observe what's going on (strategy #6) and just simplifies everything. I like to
start new folks at 20 to 25mm/s print speeds. What's the hurry? If you print 10 aborted prints at 50mm/s
what have you gained (or lost)? Printing slow helps all parts of the printer, from the mechanics to the
extruder to the plastic filament coming out the nozzle, stay in balance or equilibrium. Fast movements
can highlight mechanical issues, extrusion issues, etc. But when you are first starting out, you don't
know how to identify and isolate these issues. In fact, even with all of my experience, if something
starts to go wrong, I slow down. That removes a lot of variables and gives me a chance to see what's
happening. I've identified everything from loose pulleys to a worn joint on a delta arm to separating
arms on magnetic ball joints! And, I've helped a lot of folks identify other issues simply by slowing
down.
12 – A Strategy for Successful (and great!) Prints - 99
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