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Check headway by shifting the engines to neutral and coming to a complete stop over a long distance, or by reversing the
engines and stopping within a shorter distance.
TOWING
Always offer assistance to a vessel in distress. However, towing a capsized yacht or a yacht with a damaged hull is not
recommended. Lend aid to the occupants, and call the proper authorities when towing is required. Remember, all yachters
are obligated to lend aid to any person in distress, but they should not aim to repair the vessel itself. Never attempt to tow
a disabled yacht. One disabled yacht is better than two.
anchorIng
The anchor’s holding power depends on the anchor’s weight and the anchor line length. The most effective anchor line
length is six to seven times the depth of the water. For example, if the water is 10 ft (3 m) deep, the anchor line length
should be 60-70 ft (18-21 m).
DROPPING THE ANCHOR
1. Approach the selected anchor site from downwind.
2. Come to a complete stop over the desired anchor drop spot. The anchor can be lowered from either the helm or
from the bow with foot switches. To activate the foot switch at the bow, simply lift the cover.
3. Reverse the engines and slowly move the yacht backward to pay out more anchor line when the anchor hits bottom.
The anchor ukes will dig in when the anchor is appropriately set.
4. Check for anchor drag immediately after anchoring. Observe the shoreline landmarks.
5. Observe the landmarks again after 30 minutes.
6. Reset the anchor if the points of reference have changed.
WEIGHING IN
When weighing (pulling in) the anchor:
1. Weigh in the rope until vertical.
2. When the rope is taut, give a hard tug to pull the anchor’s shank up.
a. If the anchor is stuck, wrap some of the rope around a bow cleat and keep tension on the rode. The yacht’s
momentum may free the anchor.
b. If there is a swell, wind the rope around a bow cleat when the bow drops into a wave trough. As the bow lifts, it
may free the anchor.
c. If neither 2a nor 2b methods works:
i. Pay out about 3 ft (1 m) of rope.
ii. Secure the rope around the bow cleat, and maneuver around the anchor.
iii. Keep the rope tight until the proper angle is found to pull the anchor loose.
ELECTRIC WINDLASS (OPTIONAL)
An optional electric windlass simplies the previously mentioned procedures. Follow the previously mentioned procedures,
and use the windlass control at the helm to drop anchor. To relieve strain on the windlass, a hook called the devil’s claws
engage the chain when the anchor is down.
A TIP FROM CARVER!
ALWAYS tie off the anchor rope to the anchoring cleat to avoid potentially damaging stress on the windlass.
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