A
THE
ENGlNE-----------------
the
engine warm.
The
drain plug is located on
the
left-hand side
of
the
engine sump.
ApproXimately
9 pints
(5·1
litres) of oil
are
necessary
to
brtng
the
level
to
the
"Fu
II ,. mark on
the
dipstick
on early models.
and sl-ightly
more
if a
new
external
filter has been fitted.
On
models commencing
with
Engine No.
14948
a larger engine
sump
is fltted,
having a capacity of
lOi
pints (5'96 IItres).
Section
A.2
REMOVAL
AND
REPLACEMENT OF
THE
ENGINE
SUMP
Lower
the
exhaust
system
after
removing
the
three
nuts
which
secure
the
exhaust
pipe
to
the
manifold flange and
the
two
set
bolts securing
the
ex-
haust pipe bracket
to
the
gearbox. and dratn
the
oil
from
the
sump. (See Section A.I.)
Remove
the
dipstick.
Release
the
clutch pedal pull-off spring from
the
return
spring
bracket.
Remove
the
split pin and clevis pin securing
the
intermediate
dutch
operating
lever
to
the
clutch
operatIng
rod.
On
early models. with a cable-operated clutch,
remove
the
two
set
bolts and spring washers securing
the
clutch cable
abutment
bracket
to
the
sump.
remove
the
split pin and
washer
and slide off
the
intermediate
clutch
operating
lever.
N""l---
CHAIN COVER
x
A5BE5TOS
SEAL
Fig.
AJ.
The correct fini"g of
the
seal and sump gasket
(frollt end).
On
later
models a rod is fitted In place of
the
clutch
operating cable.
On
these
cars remove
the
split pin
and
washer
from
the
operating rod lever fulcrum pin
and move
the
operating
mechanism clear of
the
sump.
Remove
the
bolts and spring washers securing
the
sump
to
the
cylinder block and flywheel housing, and
A.6
lower
the
sump
to
the
ground.
Note
that
the
anchor-
age
for
the
engine fume pipe Is located on
the
left-
hand side of
the
flywheel houslng. on
the
fi
rst
set
screw
below
the
crankcase and sump
joint
line. (In breaking
the
sump
Joint avoid damaging
the
gasket. or it will be
necessary
to
fit a new
one
when
the
sump
is replaced.)
The
sump
can now be cleaned and dried.
When
cleaning
the
sump
use a stiff
brush-never
use rag.
Replacementof
the
sump Is carried
out
In
the
reverse
manner
to
that
detailed
for
removal.
Note.-If
it is necessary to
fit
a new sump gasket,
refer
to
Fig.
No.
A.29 for the methodofcutting
(l
replace·
ment. Take
care
that the
portion
is left which
goes
between
the rear main
bearing
cop cork seal and the
crankcase.
(See
Fig.
AA.)
This
is
important.
fig. A.4.
When
fittl"&
the
cork
seal for
the
rear main bearing it
Is
importa"t
thac the
stepped
end be In
proper
engage-
ment with the sump
luket.
Examine
the
cork
cornposlclon packing ring In
the
groove of
the
rear
main bearing cap, and if damaged
fit a new
one.
See Fig.
AA
for
the
correct
method
of
fitting this seal in conjunction
wlth
the
sump
gasket;
pay special
attention
to
this point to
prevent
011
leaks.
It is
important
to
ensure
that
the
ends of
the
sump
gasket fit snugly into
the
recesses in
the
ends of
the
rear
bearing cap
cork
seal.
Examine
the"
Karmal .. asbestos seal, fitted Into
the
recess at
the
front
of
the
sump. If
replacement
is
necessary, care should be
taken
that
the
ends
of
the
new on e
are
fIush
or
a Iitele above
the
face of
the
sump.
The
sump
gasket must go
between
the
ends of seals.
The
flanged edges of
the
sump and
the
joint
faces
of
the
cylinder block should be cleaned before replac-
ing
the
sump,
or
difficulty may be experienced In
making an oil-tight Joint.
When
all faces
are
clean,
coat
the
cylinder block flange with an even film of
suitable Jointing
compound.
and
ensure
that
the
holes
in
the
jointing washer coincide with
the
bolt holes In
H.G. Midget (Serles
"TD
").
Issue 3 (E)
79345-
I/53
Wishvilles Classic
Automobile Library
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