Wiring and Connections
11
Mi Series Audio Controllers
Considerations for Existing Construction
For existing construction, successful implementation can be achieved by using retrofit electrical boxes
that do not require stud mounting or metal electrical frames which are commonly used for telephone and
cable installations. These “afterthought” low voltage electrical boxes can be placed in a standard opening
in the wall. Care must be taken when using these frames that they must not come in contact with the back
of the unit, or provide a shorting path at the cable connections.
When installing near other switches, make sure the boxes are dead level and lined up with existing
electrical boxes.
Running Wires in Existing Construction
A neat and careful installation in an existing construction application will increase the customer
satisfaction level as well as reduce the chance of service calls in the future. Run cables inside the walls
(wherever possible) to the attic, basement, or crawl space. Some installers cut the long straight section
from a coat hanger and chuck it into a drill to help establish a reference marker through ceilings and
floors up against the edge of a wall. The coat hanger wire is tough enough to drill through most materials
without snagging the carpet fibers. The wire is fairly unobtrusive and the length makes it easy to spot on
the other side. The small hole left behind is usually hidden by the carpet, or easily repaired. Holes in the
stud wall for the wiring can then be made by taking into account the width of the baseboard, drywall, and
half the stud (usually 1/2” + 1/2” + 1- 1/ 2 or 2- 1/ 2” from the pilot hole.)
If you must run wires in a room that is carpeted, you can carefully place the cables under the baseboard
or you can lift the edge of the carpet and place the wiring between the carpet’s tack strip and the wall. Be
careful going past doorways or across a walking path. A cable doesn’t seem too big until it’s tripped over
or causes an unsightly lump in the carpet, so please consider cable diameter where necessary. In some
cases when running wire under carpet or a threshold, you may discover that multiple 2 conductor speaker
wiring will sit flatter than a single bundled 4 conductor wire.
Marking the Cables
When running each cable, carry a fine tip permanent marker with you and mark both ends of the cable.
When you get to the keypad location, mark a couple of arrows on the cable to show you in which
direction the speakers are and in which direction the Controller is. This will save you time, eliminating
the need to “Ohm-out” the cables later to find the one you’re looking for. A few additional seconds spent
during the wiring stage will save you hours of cable chasing later.
Existing Electrical Boxes for Keypads
Due to the varying manufactured sizes of electrical plates and boxes carefully mark a level and plumb
outline of the switch box using the box itself as a template and make a hole in the existing wall with a
drywall or reciprocating saw. Please be careful to ensure that the space you’re cutting into does not hide
any plumbing, electrical or heating fixtures that could be damaged or cause personal injury. Care must
also be taken when dealing with outside walls. The vapor barrier should be repaired if damaged.
Considerations for Outdoor Zones
Outdoor listening zone locations present some unique challenges, both for the wiring and for the control
keypad placement.
Outdoor Wiring
Special care should be taken when cables transit outside the home. It is not recommended that keypads
be installed in environments subject to extreme temperatures, or moisture. Typically keypads are
installed inside the home and beside the door adjacent to the outside music zone. Keypads that must be
installed outside are done at your own risk and should be installed in weatherproof electrical boxes. The
DAS-IRRX-SWT Stealth IR Receiver provides an excellent solution for outdoor use. Keypads used
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