Here is another design for better
managing the bowden tube:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2984
407
The author has used this holder for the
bowden tube and kept the cable
attached to the tube.
All solutions are fine, as long as the
cable and tube do not touch the parts
being printed during the print
operations.
If you plan to upgrade to dual extrusion later, or change the stock extruder for a
stronger dual-drive extruder (which is a good idea at some point and is documented
later in this document), then the first design will still work but not the second, as it is
only working with the stock extruder.
Optional – Install ventilation fangs on your hotend
Recap so far: You have a brand new printer, with good enough bed levelling,
stiffening braces, motor dampeners and possibly bed feet, side filament and control
box holders, and you are keen on printing more difficult stuff.
Here is your first big move forward.
I have marked this upgrade “optional”,
because I believe that many prints can
be achieved with good enough quality
with the stock print head. However, no
denying that many many users of CR-
10 printers upgrade their head with
“fangs”.
To cut it short, there are many designs
available online and I chose the one
that I found the most modular and
popular, the “modular petsfang v2”
here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2759
439
There are advantages with this design, like the probe holders available for bed
levelling probes on the left or right hand side of the hotend. And as the next step will
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