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- Check the connection of the cranks with the axle by tightening the crank bolt/nut in the axle with a spanner before each
ride from the beginning and occasionally later, however, always when regular noise can be heard from the bottom bracket
assembly or there is suspicion of creating a backlash. No claim for compensation or replacement applies to backlash created by
insufficient tightening the crank bolt (deformation of the crank square).
2. Tightening the pedals in the cranks
- It is advisable to check using Spanner No. 15 whether the faces of axles fit sufficiently on the crank surfaces after the first ride
and at regular intervals thereafter. No claim for compensation or replacement applies to insufficiently tightened pedals in
cranks and the consequent pushing out (damage) of the thread in the cranks.
3. Quill assembly
- Before each ride, make sure that the locking nut has been tightened properly and test by tapping with the front wheel to
ensure that no backlash has been created in the assembly that could progressively destroy the pans of the assembly completely.
No claim for compensation or replacement applies to insufficient tightening and consequent destruction of the quill assembly.
Integrated quill assembly
- Before each ride, make sure that the Allen head screw positioned on top of the quill assembly has been tightened properly
and test by tapping with the front wheel to ensure that no play in the assembly has been created that could progressively
destroy the pans of the assembly completely. No claim for compensation or replacement applies to insufficient tightening and
consequent destruction of the quill assembly.
4. Stem bolts
- It is advisable to tighten the stem spindle and, in particular, the sleeve bolt from time to time – turning handlebars are very
dangerous for riding.
5. Brakes
- Before each ride, squeeze the brake levers and check visually to ensure that both the front and rear brake shoes are adjusted
correctly with respect to the rims – see the Basic Instructions below.
HOW DO I RIDE A BIKE DURING THE STARTING PERIOD?
More sensitively and perceptively than with a used bike. Ride more slowly and avoid extreme downhill rides in heavy terrain right
from the beginning. You can afford these rides after you overcome your uncertainty and obtain skills in riding your new bike.
It will certainly pay to gain experience, monitor the bike and then adjust and retighten everything that becomes loose during the
first kilometres. So always take tools, common sense and, in particular, instinct with you!
Quiet operation can be restored by tuning the adjustment screw of the rear derailleur, mostly by half a turn to a complete turn.
In the case of the front derailleur, carry out adjustment using the setting screw on the shifter but a shift cable that is stretched
either too much or too little can make it necessary to adjust the pull. It also can happen that an unsuitable position of the guide
causes dragging of the chain or even reduces the ability to change gears. The front derailleur should be parallel to the chainrings
and adjusted at the correct height. Adjustment is a necessary condition for proper operation but not a sufficient one. If the chain is
not in the proper condition, the drivetrain also cannot operate correctly. A rigid link means the reduction of the ability of the chain
to pass through the guide, incorrect entry to the cog claws which is reflected in popping or skipping, in particular on the smallest
cogs. Similarly, a dry chain makes riding more difficult with its mechanical resistance and considerably slows the gear-changing
process. For lubrication, it is best to use thin oils with Teflon and high ability to rise inside (such as GT 85) or special lubricants
for chains (Castrol). Standard machine oils are substantially cheaper, however, they should be completely penetrated with oil,
excessive oil should be wiped off the surface and in spite of this measure, it is practically impossible to avoid the creation of black
dirt. It is advisable to pay attention to the chain from the beginning until the end of its technical service life. That is to say, if you
miss the right time for replacement, it is almost certain that you will also need to replace the cassette and probably the chainrings
as well (however, this will not be certain to happen during the first 150 km).
And remember – if you disconnect the chain for any reason, do not put it on the black pins. The black connecting pins have
a larger diameter than the others and by pushing them out, the hole in the link will be widened so that consequent pin insertion
has no chance for reliable operation and it is very probable that the chain will become disconnected again. Use the black pins
principally for connecting; avoid them when disconnecting.
ENGLISH
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