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Troubleshooting: Remote Start
The remote start will not activate the remote start:
1. Check shutdown diagnostics. Sometimes the remote start shutdown diagnostics will report if there is
an active shutdown.
2. Is the parking brake/emergency brake input wire connected to the parking brake/emergency brake
wire in the vehicle and is the parking brake/emergency brake set?
3. Is the remote programmed to the system?
4. Can the remote start be activated manually by applying a ground pulse to the 24 pin harness White/
Blue activation input?
5. Check the harnesses and their connections. Make sure that the harnesses are completely plugged into
the remote start module. Make sure there are good connections to the vehicle wiring.
6. Check voltage and fuses on the main harness and on the heavy gauge remote start harness.
The remote start will activate, but the starter never engages:
1. Check for voltage on the Violet starter wire two seconds after the remote start becomes active. If there
is voltage present, skip to Step 8. If there is not voltage present, advance to Step 2.
2. Check the 30A fuses.
3. If the Gray/Black WTS (Wait-to-Start) wire is detecting ground upon activation, the starter will not
crank.
4. Is the tach wire connected? If so disconnect it and remote start the vehicle to see if the Violet wire
sends out voltage. If you get voltage you will need to go to an alternate tach source, the tach wire
you are currently on has a voltage spike upon ignition power up which can cause the remote start to
not send out the crank voltage.
5. Is the vehicle a Chrysler or GM with a multiplexed starter wire? The vehicle will not crank if the resis-
tance is incorrect on the multiplexed accessory/starter wire.
6. Is the vehicle a GM? If so the Brown 2nd accessory needs to be powered up on some of the vehicles
for the vehicle to crank.
7. Make sure the Violet starter wire is connected on the starter side of the optional starter disable/anti-
grind relay.
8. Does the vehicle have an immobilizer? Some immobilizer systems will not allow the vehicle to crank
if active.
9. Check connections. The heavy gauge remote start input wires on the heavy gauge 10-pin connector
should have a solid connection. “T-taps” or “scotch locks”.
The vehicle starts, but immediately dies:
1. Does the vehicle have an immobilizer? The vehicle’s immobilizer can cut the fuel and/or spark during
unauthorized starting attempts.
2. Is the remote start programmed for Virtual Tach or Voltage Sense? If so, the crank time may not be set
high enough. Voltage Sense will not work on some vehicles.
3. Is the remote start in Tach Mode? If so has the tach been programmed to the system?
4. Check diagnostics. Sometimes a shutdown will become active during cranking or just after crank-
ing.
The vehicle starts, but the starter keeps running:
1. Is the system programmed for Engine Checking Off, Virtual Tach, or Voltage Sense? When pro-
grammed for either of these features, the engine cranks for the pre-programmed crank time regard-
less of how long it takes for the vehicle to actually start. Adjust to a lower cranking time.
2. Was the Tach Learn successful? The LED must light solid and bright to indicate a successful learn.
3. Make sure that there is a tach signal at the Violet/White tach input wire of the remote start. If there
is not a tach signal, recheck the connection to the vehicle’s tach wire and make sure the wire is not
broken or shorted to ground leading to the remote start.
4. Is an ignition or accessory output wire connected to the starter wire of the vehicle? Verify the color
of the starter wire in the vehicle and confirm that an ignition or an accessory output is not connected
to that wire.
The vehicle starts, but will only run for 10 seconds:
1. Is the remote start programmed for voltage sense? If this does not work, a tach wire should be
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