2.4 Needles and threads
Needle system: 2134-85
Recommended
needle size: Nm 90 for thin material
Nm 100 for medium-weight material
Nm 110 for heavy-weight material
High sewing security and good sewability are achieved with the
following core threads:
–
Two-ply polyester endless polyester core-spun
(e.g. Epic Poly-Poly, Ras ant x, Saba C, ...)
–
Two-ply polyester endless cotton c ore-spun
(e.g. Frikka, Koban, Rasant, ...)
If these threads are not available, the polyester fibre or cotton threads
listed in the table c an also be sewn.
Often two-ply core threads are offered by the thread manufacturers
with the same designation as three-ply polyester fibre threads
(3cyl.-spun).This causes uncertainty with regard to twisting and thread
thickness.
When in doubt, unravel the thread and check whether it is twisted 2- or
3-ply.
The label no. 120 on the thread reel of a core thread corresponds e.g.
to the thread size Nm 80/2 (see table values in brackets).
In case of monofilament threads you can use needle threads and hook
threads of the same thickness. The best results are achieved with soft
and elastic threads (software) of the thread thickness 130 Denier.
Recommended thread sizes:
Needle size Core thread Core thread
Nm
Needle thread Hook thread Needle thread Hook thread
Polyester Polyester Polyester Cotton
endless core-spun endless core-spun
Label No. Label No. Label No. Label No.
90 120 (Nm 80/2) 120 (Nm 80/2) 120 (Nm 80/2) 120 (Nm 80/2)
100 100 (Nm 65/2) 100 (Nm 65/2) 100 (Nm 65/2) 100 (Nm 65/2)
110 75 (Nm 50/2) 75 (Nm 50/2) 75 (Nm 50/2) 75 (Nm 50/2)
Needle size Polyester fibre thread Cotton thread
Nm (3cyl.-spun)
Needle thread Hook thread Needle thread Hook thread
90 Nm 80/3-120/3 Nm 80/3-120/3 Ne
B
50/3-70/3 Ne
B
50/3-70/3
100 Nm 70/3-100/3 Nm 70/3-100/3 Ne
B
40/3-60/3 Ne
B
40/3-60/3
110 Nm 50/3-80/3 Nm 50/3-80/3 Ne
B
40/4-60/4 Ne
B
40/4-60/4
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