brushes and emery paper. It is important that the bores are a clean, smooth metal surface before attempting to
fit the bushes.
4.1.2 Fitting bushes
Clean the surface of each bush and coat sparingly with Loctite. Using the studding, spacer, washers and nuts
as in figure 1 or similar, press the bushes home until they are centralised in the cross member.
4.1.3 Differential mounting plate
Using two 1/2” UNF x 3 1/2” bolts & nyloc nuts assemble the top differential mounting plate to the chassis
upper cross member via the rubber bushes. The plate needs to be mounted with the flat face forward.
4.1.4 Rear axle set up
Set up the rear axle assembly on the floor with the drive shafts horizontal using suitable packing pieces and a
spirit level. Referring to fig 2, fit shims between the brake discs and the inner universal joint flanges to set
the rear hubs vertical using the spirit level. Tighten the inner drive joint flange nuts to 55 ft-lbs. If you’ve
received your axle fully built this will have already been done for you.
4.1.5 Installing axle
Next offer up the rear suspension & final drive subunit to the chassis (See photo 3). The help of 2 colleagues
is required. Place the subunit on a trolley jack or another kind of lifting bed capable of taking the weight,
supported under the flat lower differential mounting plate. With a person at each hub to steady the unit,
position it such that the 4 tapped holes in the top of the differential mate with the 4 holes in the top mounting
plate. Screw in the 4 countersunk bolts loosely at this stage.
4.1.6 Lower mounts
Using the remaining two 1/2” UNF x 31/2” bolts, nyloc nuts and the 1/2”ID x 11/2” OD “mudguard”
washers, attach the lower differential mounting plate to the chassis lower cross member. Fit washers as
necessary between the mounting plate and the chassis so that when the 4 top countersunk bolts are tightened,
alignment is maintained, and undue stress is not applied to the differential body or bushes. Install the large
“mudguard” washers between the front face of the bush and the nyloc nut. This is to ensure, in the unlikely
event of the bush becoming loose in its bore, that the lower mounting plate remains captive.
4.1.7 Tightening and wiring
Using spanners and finally a torque wrench tighten the 4 countersunk differential attachment bolts to 75 ft-
lbs (since there is little access for a torque wrench on some of the bolts use best judgement with a spanner),
and the 4 attachment bolts to the chassis to 40lb-ft. Using the 0.8mm S/S wire lock together the 4 special
countersunk 1/2” UNC bolts by passing the wire through the drillings in the bolt heads before twisting the
wire and passing through the next bolt head, special pliers are available to help make this tight and tidy.
4.1.8 Differential oil
Make sure that the differential unit has been filled with fresh hypoid oil (refer to Appendix 4 for the correct
grade). The filler port is easy to access now but much more difficult after the fuel tank has been fitted. The
filler plug is also the level, fill until oil is level/just runs out of the threaded plug hole. It is a good idea to
write a note somewhere to say the oil has been filled to save having to check later on.
4.1.9 Assembling Coil over dampers
Next fit the 4 coils over shock absorber units. It is clear which is the rear versus the front as there are 4 of the
former and 2 of the latter. Assemble these if not already done and set the spring height and damper setting to
the base settings advised in figure 23.
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