SS100 Build Manual (Export Edition) Rev 10 November 2013
the later method get your helper to pump the pedal until pressure is felt then release the bleed nipple until the
pedal has dropped before closing the nipple and pumping again until fluid free from bubbles is coming out,
do this on the first brake before moving on. Always start at the brake furthest away from the master cylinder
and work closer, get the worst of the air out on the first circuit then repeat all brakes again and you should
have a good pedal. If your having difficulties jack the front of the car to help remove any air locks that may
be in the master cylinder, you will also have difficulties if you have a small leak as these can draw in air
although not necessary leak fluid (you may hear these rather then see them).
4.5 Fuel tank, fuel pump and fuel line
You will need the following parts for this operation:
• Fuel tank.
• Fuel tank straps (2).
• Fuel pump.
• M10 nyloc nuts plus plain washers (2).
• Rubber webbing.
• Fuel tank sender complete with cork gasket.
• 5/16” (or 8mm) OD copper fuel line.
• 5/16” “P” clips (7).
• 5/16” ID fuel hose and hose clips (2).
• 1/4”UNF x 1/2” setscrews or No6 x 1/2” self tapping screws (7).
• 2BA x 3/8” cheesehead screws or socket head capscrews (6) (these could be M5 on some tanks –
check first).
• 5/16”UNF x 1” bolts & nyloc nuts (2).
4.5.1 Setting
tank fuel sender
The tank sender unit is supplied with the float arm separate from the actuating arm. Attach the float to the
arm by bending the end of the arm around the groove in the float making sure that the float is at the correct
attitude, i.e. its longitudinal axis parallel to the liquid level. The sender float arm should be pre-shaped for
you by Suffolk Sportscars, if not adjust the arm so the float is just off the bottom of the tank this should
leave the gauge reading empty when it still has a little fuel left for safety. The sender mounting flange is
marked
“TOP” to identify its correct attitude.
4.5.2 Fitting tank fuel sender
Coat the cork gasket both sides with sealing compound and secure the sender unit to the tank using the 6
x 2BA screws (or M5 please check with Suffolk Sportscars if unsure). Coat each screw with sealing
compound otherwise fuel can leak around the threads.
4.5.3 Fuel tank and straps
Attach the fuel tank straps to the forward attachment points on the chassis using the two 5/16” bolts & nyloc
nuts. Noting where the straps will fit around the fuel tank attach the rubber webbing temporarily holding it
with masking tape or similar. Alternatively glue the webbing to the straps with contact adhesive.
Fit the fuel tank in the chassis and secure it by inserting the stud ends of the straps in the rear chassis
attachment points and tightening using the nyloc nuts provided (the help of a second person makes this much
easier), alternatively use a trolley jack but do not over tighten or the tank will deform.
4.5.4 Fuel pump
Fit the fuel pump to the bracket provided on the chassis frame next to the clutch master cylinder using the
rubber mounts supplied with the pump, at the same time you can connect the earth cable supplied with the
pump to bypass the rubber mounts and earth the fuel pump making sure the chassis is clean of powder
coating where the earth is contacting, protect with grease after fitted. Install the copper fuel line running it
from the tank, where it is connected with a compression fitting supplied with the tank, to the pump suction
using the “P” clips and self-tapping screws. Continue the fuel line from the pump discharge through the
chassis and servo plate to end up just in front of the master cylinder ready to connect to the carburetors.
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