8.1.4 Rear floorboard upright mount
Check the rear end of the floorboards are parallel with each other and roughly level with the metal cross tube
above, then offer into place the two alloy angle sections (one side is longer then other as differential is
offset). They need to be bolted underneath the floorboards with the return coming up to mount the rear
upright, you will need to cut a relief in them to take the main chassis rail that’s under the floorboard.
Temporally bolt these in place before offering up the prop-shaft cover, you will need to shorten the top
section of the alloy angles to allow the prop-shaft cover to sit back and the front face of each to be in line.
Once done lift the prop-shaft cover out and fit these angles in place.
8.1.5 Rear floorboards
Now you can trial fit the three rear floorboard sections, due to variances in bodies these will need the sides
trimming in places to allow them to fit. The upright panel has a wood spacer on the rear face to allow for the
internal hinge, if you are having the extra tool tray (optional) this is not needed and can be removed and the
top board shortened to suit. On the upright and short top section should be a line from front to back approx
180 mm from the sides, this is a guide to where to cut the panels for rear brake access and can be drawn
straight and true across the two panels, use a pencil to mark the six sections that you will have once cut so
you can get them back in the same order, if your very skilled at woodwork you could cut these at an angle to
make them sit and seal nicer, cut the top board first as the upright will need to be slightly narrower to suit the
angle on the top board. Remove these two panels and cut along your marked lines then offer back into the
car. With the floorboards cut and all in place the four end sections and the rear fuel tank cover can all be
fixed in place with the supplied screws, two in each would be sufficient. That will leave the opening section
for brake access.
8.1.6 Rear brake access panel and tool tray
If you are not having a tool tray the remaining two panels can be fitted with the four hinges supplied, use two
on top of the top board to fuel tank cover and two on the inside between the top panel and the upright below,
this will enable the panels to open like a piano lid. They will need a screw into the alloy angle to hold them
closed.
If you’re having the optional tool tray both sections can be mounted with a screw in each of the four corners,
remove the top panel and trial fit the tool tray in the open recess. You may need to reposition the handbrake
return springs for this. Once happy on position and fit, mount the tool tray to the panel with countersunk
screws and nuts, then decide on a lid size and shape. You can then remove the tool tray, cut your lid size
before refitting the tool tray and hinging the lid with hinges supplied.
8.1.7 Handbrake lever
The next thing to do is to temporally fit the handbrake lever, Mark on the right hand floor board the position
of the rear edge of the prop-shaft hoop, place in the prop-shaft cover (the covers rear return should be behind
the floor board upright, you may need to trim the upright for this) and transfer the mark from the floor to the
prop-shaft cover.
This is the position for the rear end of the handbrake mount, measure the length of the handbrake mount
(approx 180 mm) and cut this length out of the prop-shaft cover flange.
Reposition the prop-shaft cover and offer up the hand brake you will need to mark and cut a slot in the
floorboard for the lever to drop through, this will start in front of the prop-shaft hoop and end before the front
mount hole, your mount holes can also be drilled at this point with the rear mount being drilled through the
prop-shaft hoop and the front only through the floorboard. The handbrake needs to be between straight and
the tunnel cover angle, too straight and your fingers will get stuck between tunnel and handbrake, angled
with tunnel will make it too close to passenger seat and look odd.
8.1.8 Staining and refitting the floorboards
Remove the floorboards and all the fittings and clean all the drill swarf and dust off the chassis. Stain the
floorboards with a high quality stain, it can be easier to get an even coat using a lint free rag to apply the
stain. Leave the floor to dry before refitting permanently.