low-contrast images. Also, anytime you recover lost detail
from shadows, there will be extra noise in the recovered
areas. So watch the noise!
This function can be useful for JPEG shooters in particular.
Since you really shouldn’t modify a JPEG file after shooting
it, it’s important that the image is created exactly right in the
first place. When you are shooting in a contrasty setting, such
as in direct sunlight, some degree of Active D-Lighting may
help reign in the contrast.
If you set Active D-Lighting much above Normal, the image
will start to have an artificial look, in my opinion. Skin tones
can develop a pinkish look that is unnatural, in my eyes.
If you shoot in RAW, there’s not much point in using Active
D-Lighting at all since you will be post-processing your
images in-computer. I leave it set to Off for the Shooting
menu banks that use NEF (RAW) mode and On for the banks
that use JPEG. Normally, I don’t go much above the Low
setting, except for party JPEGs, which I set to Normal. My
best JPEGs are set to Low.
Remember, your camera has multiple Shooting menu banks,
and you can set Active D-Lighting for each bank in a
different way and then select the most appropriate bank for
the job.
Use Auto mode when you’re shooting JPEGs and don’t have
time to fool with camera settings yet you must get the shot, no
matter what. Auto lets the camera decide the appropriate level
of Active D-Lighting according to the ambient light and
contrast in the image.
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