TROUBLE–SHOOTING GUIDE OP–2FM OWNER'S MANUAL
NU–VU® FOOD SERVICE SYSTEMS PO BOX 35 MENOMINEE, MICHIGAN 49858-0035
page 22 SALES FAX (906) 863-5889 • SERVICE FAX (906) 863-6322 (800) 338-9886
III. The Proofer Power Switch [31] is in the ON position, you have lights, heat and
Proofer Motor rotation but no humidity:
For the standard manual-fill Proofer:
A. Make sure the Water Pan [64] contains at least 2" of water.
B. Make sure the Water Pan is fully seated on the Humidity Element [13].
C. Turn the Humidity Control [34] to #7 or #8 to see if the Humidity Control activates. If the
Humidity Control activates the Humidity Element coil should become very hot in only a few
moments.
D. Check all electrical connections between the Proofer Power Switch, the Humidity Control
Circuit Board [10] and the Humidity Element. All connections must be clean and tight.
E. Check the voltage from the Power Terminal Block [1] to the Power Switch, to the Humidity
Control Circuit Board, and to the Humidity Element. If the correct voltage is present at the
Humidity Element but it does not get hot the Element must be replaced (refer to HUMIDITY
ELEMENT, How To Replace in the SERVICE AND REPLACEMENT GUIDE). If voltage is
present at the input side of the Control Circuit Board but not at the output side the Control
Circuit Board or the Humidity Control Sensor [11] may be bad.
For the AUTOMIST Proofer:
A. Check for adequate and sustained pressure in the water supply line to the Proofer up to the
Proofer Solenoid Valve [84]. If there is sufficient pressure at the water source but not at the
Proofer Solenoid Valve your in-line water filter may be clogged or the water supply line may
be kinked or pinched.
B. Gently tap the Proofer Solenoid Valve body to loosen any sediment that may be causing the
valve to stick.
C. Remove the Proofer Element Cover [62] to expose the Injection Nozzle [85]. Unscrew the
Nozzle spray head and check for clogging in the spray orifice. Clean the internal screen with a
small stiff brush before replacing.
D. Check all electrical connections between the Proofer Power Switch, the Humidity Control [81],
the Repeat Cycle Timer [83] and the Proofer Solenoid Valve. All connections must be clean
and tight.
E. Check the Humidity Control, the Repeat Cycle Timer and the Proofer Solenoid Valve with a
voltmeter for proper operation. Any suspect component should be thoroughly checked. All non-
functional components must be replaced.
IV. The Proofer Power Switch [31] is in the ON position but the Proofer Motor [14]
makes noise or does not run:
A. Loosen and lift the Element Cover [62] away from the Proofer Fan Blade [61] or Blower
Wheel [86]. If the Proofer Motor starts running, or the noise stops, the Fan Blade/Blower
Wheel was dragging on the bottom of the Element Cover. Straighten the Element Cover (if it is
bent down) or reposition the Fan Blade/Blower Wheel on the Proofer Motor shaft.
B. Remove the Proofer Element Cover and check the Fan Blade/Blower Wheel for dragging on
the floor of the Proofer. Reposition the Fan Blade/Blower Wheel on the Proofer Motor shaft if
necessary.
C. Check the set screw on the Fan Blade/Blower Wheel for tightness. A loose set screw will
allow the Fan Blade/Blower Wheel to wobble and vibrate, causing noise and possible damage
to the Proofer Motor.
D. Remove the Proofer Element Cover and spin the Proofer Motor by hand. If the Motor turns
hard or makes a grinding noise when turned the Motor bearings are bad and the Motor must be
replaced (refer to PROOFER MOTOR/FAN ASSEMBLY, How to Replace in the SERVICE
AND REPLACEMENT GUIDE).
To Next Page
Loading...
