37
bernette
SEWING MACHINE WORK
BOOK
Reference - Sewing Machine Needles
General Information
Along with thread, needles are very important to stitch formation. Many “mechanical”
problems and damage to fabrics can be traced to a bent, damaged, or incorrect needle.
When selecting the correct needle, consider the following:
• Needle system – 130/705H
• Needle point – assures proper stitch formation; avoids fabric damage
• Needle size – smaller for lightweight fabrics; larger for heavier fabrics
If the needle is:
• Too small – the thread can’t stay in the groove to form a loop to be picked up by the
hook point
• Bent – the thread loop forms too far away from hook point and the hook can’t enter
the loop to form a stitch
• Blunt – the needle won’t pierce fabric, so no thread loop forms to make a stitch
Need to Know
• Needles should be changed after every 4 to 6 hours of stitching, or earlier if stitches
are looking bad. The needle is the most inexpensive part in your sewing machine, but
it is crucial for getting good results and keeping your machine running well. Don’t let
false economy keep you from doing what is best for your sewing projects and your
machine.
• The selected thread should t in the groove on the front of
the needle. If it isn’t protected by the groove, a needle with a
larger groove should be used.
• Always make sure needles are fully inserted as high as
possible, with the at side to the back.
Needle “Secret” Code
• DRI = Triple
• E = Embroidery
• J = Jeans
• L, LL, R = Leather
• M = Microtex
• MET = Metallic
• N = Topstitching/
Cordonnet
• Q = Quilting
• S = Stretch
• SUK = Fine Ball Point
• SES = Medium Ball Point
• WING = Wing
• ZWI = Double
• ZWIHO = Double Wing
Needle Size Conversion
Regardless of the system,
the greater the number,
the larger the diameter of
the needle.
European vs. Domestic
60=8 90=14
70=10 100 =16
75=11 110 =18
80 =12 120 =19
Needle Size for Fabrics
60 – very ne batiste
70 – shirt-weight
80 – medium-weight
90 – denim and twill
100/110/120 – canvas
HOW
Do you know how to:
• Use the bernette Creative Consultant for
needle recommendations?
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