Bernette 79 - Thread Reference Guide; Thread Fiber Types; Guidelines for Thread Weights

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bernette SEWING MACHINE WORK BOOK
Reference - Threads
To achieve quality stitches, a sewing machine needs three
things: suitable thread, correct size needle, and properly
adjusted thread tensions. Poor quality or the wrong type of
thread can cause inferior stitches on any machine. Inferior
thread results in crooked and looped stitches, puckered
seams, frayed thread, and/or needle breakage. Did you
know that thread passes through the eye of the needle
approximately 37 times in a “seesaw” action before it forms
a single stitch?
Long staple threads are stronger and smoother than short
staple threads. (Staple refers to the length of bers twisted
together to form a single ply). Most bargain-priced threads
are usually short staple and will deposit more lint and fuzz
into your sewing machine, potentially causing tension
inconsistencies and possibly even damage to your machine
over the long term. Using long staple threads also result in
less snagging and fraying as you sew.
Ply refers to the number of strands twisted together to make
a single thread. The number of plies is usually indicated by a
number after the weight of the thread such as 50/3, which
means a 3-ply, 50-wt. thread. The lower the weight, the
heavier the thread; conversely, higher numbers indicate ne
or lightweight thread.
Fibers
Fiber refers to the type of material used to produce
the thread.
Polyester
Good for clothing construction on man-made,
natural or blended fabrics. Tolerates high
temperatures. Polyester embroidery thread has a
high sheen; excellent for embroidery, very abrasion
resistant, and will not fade.
Cotton
Available in a wide range of weights from 12-100,
cotton thread gives a soft, full look to embroidery,
appliqué, and buttonholes. It is also excellent for
clothing construction on natural bers, patchwork
piecing, darning, and heirloom sewing.
Rayon
A glossy embroidery thread, rayon is not as strong
as cotton and polyester bers, making it useful
for decorative work, but not for construction
techniques.
Silk
Used on silk and wool fabrics, this strong, lustrous
ber is good for construction and decorative
details such as buttonholes. Also used for quilting
as it blends into the fabric.
Guidelines for Thread Weights
12 wt.— Couching, bobbinwork
30 wt.— Embroidery, bobbinwork
40 wt.— General construction, quilting, embroidery
50 wt.— General construction, piecing, bobbin thread, quilting
60 wt.— Lingerie, heirloom, appliqué, bobbin thread, quilting
80 wt.— Extra-ne lingerie, heirloom