NEEDLES/BACKING CHART
FABRIC
NEEDLE
SIZE/TYPE
BACKING TOPPING COMMENTS
Lycraâ or
Spandexâ
70/10 to
80/12BP
1C Optional Use round hoop. Stretch the garment to
wearing size in hoop so finished embroi-
dery will not be distorted when garment is
worn. Explain to customer that though the
embroidery may look puckered, it will
stretch into shape when the garment is
worn.
Nylon
Wind-
breaker
70/10 to
80/12BP or NP
None No If garment slips in hoop, which can cause
registration problems, wrap the hoop with
masking or twill tape to provide a rough
surface to grip more tightly.
Satin
Jacket
70/10 to
80/12BP or NP
0 or 1 No If garment slips in hoop, which can cause
registration problems, wrap the hoop with
masking or twill tape to provide a rough
surface to grip more tightly.
Sweater
Knit
70/10 to
80/12BP
1 or 2C Yes Tightly woven knits may need just one
layer of backing. Widewale bulky knits
may require more topping. Plastic wrap is
preferred on bulky knits because it pre-
vents the wales from poking up through
the stitching after repeated washings.
Sweatshirt 70/10 to
80/12BP
1 or 2C Optional Highly detailed patterns may require 2 lay-
ers of backing.
Terrycloth 80/12SP or NP 1T Yes Plastic wrap is preferred because it pre-
vents the terry loops from poking up
through the stitching after repeated wash-
ings.
Vinyl 80/12NP 1T No Reduce sewing speed. Use the smallest
needle possible for the weight of the vinyl
to avoid forming large holes that could
cause the embroidery to tear out of the fab-
ric. To avoid hoop marks, hoop the back-
ing then adhere the vinyl to it with
double-sided tape. Lightweight vinyl’s
may require more backing.
BP = Ball Point
NP = Normal Point
SP = Sharp Point
X Series Mechanical Guide 1-31
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